2006 Corton Charlemagne
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Tasting notes
The de Montille 2006 Corton-Charlemagne smells smoky, chalk dusty, and pungently floral. With almost red wine-like density and chew, yet considerable lift, this finishes with spiced pear and crushed stone. I would give this relatively austere cru several years in bottle before revisiting, and anticipate that it should evolve interestingly for at least 6-8. The result of Corton Pougets grafted over to Chardonnay in 2004, de Montille’s Corton Charlemagne is slated to officially become part of a Domaine De Montille Soeur et Frere. Alix de Montille is in charge of the white wines at her family’s domaine (and under the negociant “Deux Montille” label), while her brother Etienne continues to take the lead with the reds (while also directing the Chateau de Puligny). Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Good pale color. Brooding steely, stony nose. Dense on entry, then quite rich in the middle, with noteworthy depth and terrific cut to the flavors of white peach, flowers and stone. I find this quite similar in texture to the Puligny Cailleret but higher-pitched, with more insistent minerality to leaven the impression of body. And sweeter on the aftertaste than the Cailleret. This seems destined for a slow evolution in bottle.
Cask sample. Tense, tangy. Quite different from most Corton-Charlemagne. Not quite worth the money. (JR)
Spiced apple and pear on the nose, with a light floral element in the background. Very rich, concentrated and chewy, and not at all dry or austere. In fact, this big wine is fat with fruit. Boasts terrific intensity and a large structure, but the wine's youthfully aggressive finish suggests it will need at least four or five years of cellaring. This is just the second crop from a south-facing parcel of 27-year-old vines in Corton Pougets that was grafted over to chardonnay in 2004. I find this more intense than the '05.
About the producer
Volnay’s Domaine de Montille is one of the most historic in the Côte d’Or. Founded in 1730, the property remains family-owned and run, with Etienne de Montille – the ninth generation – at the helm today.