2003 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses

(70% pinot noir and 30% chardonnay; disgorged August, 2012): Bright gold. Deeply pitched aromas of poached pear, orange pith, honey and anise, with a smoky mineral topnote. Rich and broad but lively as well, offering intense orchard and pit fruit flavors braced by a note of bitter lemon rind. The mineral quality comes back on the finish, which shows a chewy texture and suave floral character.

The 2003 Clos de Goisses is hands down one of the most pleasant surprises of this very challenging harvest. An open, floral bouquet leads to voluptuous, expressive fruit in a Champagne that stands out for its exceptional balance. Clos ds Goisses is always quite vinous in style, and that is very much the case in 2003 as well. A creamy, intense wine, the 2003 Goisses is drop-dead gorgeous. Licorice, smoke, honey, chamomile, and graphite are some of many notes that open up over time, lending an air of exoticism that is irresistible. Clos des Goisses has a stellar track record of aging. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what time brings to the 2003. Production was just 6,000 bottles as opposed to the more typical 22,000-25,000. For that sacrifice, Charles Philipponnat was rewarded with an exceptional Clos des Goisses. This bottle was disgorged in August 2012.

The 2003 Clos de Goisses is hands down one of the most pleasant surprises of this very challenging harvest. An open, floral bouquet leads to voluptuous, expressive fruit in a Champagne that stands out for its exceptional balance. Clos ds Goisses is always quite vinous in style, and that is very much the case in 2003 as well. A creamy, intense wine, the 2003 Goisses is drop-dead gorgeous. Licorice, smoke, honey, chamomile, and graphite are some of many notes that open up over time, lending an air of exoticism that is irresistible. Clos des Goisses has a stellar track record of aging. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see what time brings to the 2003. Production was just 6,000 bottles as opposed to the more typical 22,000-25,000. For that sacrifice, Charles Philipponnat was rewarded with an exceptional Clos des Goisses. This bottle was disgorged in August 2012. May 2013, www.vinous.com, Drink: 2013-2033