2012 Bourgogne Blanc Cuvee Oligocenes

The 2012 Bourgogne Blanc Cuvee Oligocene comes from vines in Meursault next to Puligny in the lieu-dit of Les Pellands, although Patrick’s vines are situated not within the premier cru section of the vineyard, ergo they are labeled as generic white Burgundy, the cuvee named after the geological period of the rock formation. Its limestone soils encourages Patrick to use a little more new oak, around 30%, as hebelieves it is fully absorbed within one year. It has a more vibrant, intense bouquet than the Cuvee de Forgets and as usual it carries that new oak with ease. The palate is fresh and vibrant, the minerality showing through very well and infusing the vivacious finish with lime cordial and hints of orange zest. About the best generic Burgundy money can buy. Patrick uses minimal, preferably zero new oak for his Clos du Cromin cuvee because of its rich, clay soils. Patrick Javillier was busy down in his Meursault winery when I called in at the property that was established by Raymond Javillier after the war, when he set about acquiring parcels of vine around the village. Yet the main focus of the business was in purchasing fruit from courtiers. Patrick himself vinified his first wine in 1974 after completing his winemaking diploma at the University of Burgundy and steadily built up a raft of long-term contracts, tending holdings through fermage agreements. Since 2008, his daughter Marion has looked after and vinified the red wines and it was clear that Patrick takes a great deal of pride in them. I have been following Javillier’s wines for a number of years now. Here is a man determined to transcend the limitations of possessing propitious terroirs, but few premier and grand cru vines. How does he overcome them? Well, simply by straightforward winemaking tenets: complete de-stemming for the reds, remaining faithful to his trusty old Vaslin press (which was recuperating in the corner after the vintage), skillful use of new oak and by assiduously blending small parcels whose final wine is often more than a sum of its parts. Patrick told me that he commenced picking on September 12 with potential alcohol levels coming in between 12.0 and 12.9 degrees. These wines often represent outstanding value and we commence with his two generic whites that offer outstanding value year after year. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 01 33 1 42 55 42 93

Here the nose is more restrained with its reasonably elegant nose of white fleshed fruit and floral aromas. There is good richness as well as plenty of punch to the utterly delicious flavors that possess fine mid-palate concentration along with a hint of minerality that surfaces on the clean, dry and well-balanced finish. This is normally the more interesting of these two cuvées but in 2012 I find them to be qualitative equals. Note that both of them would make terrific choices for all-around house whites. Tasted: Jun 15, 2014. Drink: 2017+