2009 Vosne Romanee Champs Perdrix

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Champs Perdrix covers every inch of the palate with masses of dark fruit, tar, licorice and spices. Today the 2009 comes across as big and massive to the point of being awkward in an adolescent kind of way. The 2009 needs time to drop some of its baby fat and develop its full range of aromatics. Still it is impossible to miss the sheer pedigree here. The intensity is superb. Perrot-Minot used 20% whole clusters here. This is a terrific, hugely delicious Burgundy. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. I was deeply impressed with Christophe Perrot-Minot’s 2009s. The wines are rich and powerful in the Perrot-Minot style, yet also shine with tons of energy. New oak was 20% for the village level wines, 30% for the premier crus and 30-50% for the grand crus, topping out at 50% for the Chambertin. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040

Good full red. Aromas of redcurrant, minerals, menthol and flowers, plus a hint of chocolate liqueur. Sweet on entry, then fat and suave in the middle, with lively acidity framing and carrying the fruit. Very fine-grained. The long finish shows lush, sweet tannins.

Good ruby-red. Medicinal aromas of black fruits, menthol and chocolate. Then fat, sweet and creamy, with just enough acidity to give it balance. Rather backward on the front half, but opens out impressively on the back, coating the palate and lingering.