2005 Vosne Romanee Champs Perdrix

Very fresh and racy and pleasing. Lovely already. True expression, dry on the end. (JR)

Completing the three-stop Clair tour of high altitude, high-rent views, his 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Champs Perdrix – from 60 year old vines above La Tache – goes right to the dark side with aromas of blackberry, black cherry, peat, lichen and black truffle. Then comes the seeming 2005 paradox: lots of brash, “bright”, high-acid, fresh fruit character on the palate (but still an abundance of those “dark” flavors). This is formidably concentrated, finely tannic, and positively palate-staining – so severe it makes the Morey seem winsome. But make no mistake: if you buy your ticket and have 6-8 years’ patience, it will reward you with a front row seat at a fascinatingly complex, “I-can’t-believe-this-was-ever-grape-juice” sort of show. Bruno Clair and his long-time cellar master Philippe Brun persist in rendering Pinots of uncompromising structure and fruit acid retention that are by no means long on youthful charm. Their 2005 collection was all still in barrel, from which I did selected tasting rather than (with one already assembled exception) tasting an at all precise reflection of the final blend. A small percentage of whole clusters was employed on the Gevrey crus, rising to 20% in the Clos de Beze. Brun decides whether or not to filter based on the character of the vintage and the result of trials. In 2005, he won’t. A couple of the Marsannays here were showing a rather awkward alternation between bright fresh fruit acidity and caramelized faintly wood tones, but admittedly, with larger cuvees, that is a tricky thing to judge prior to assemblange. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay Vaudenelles ($32.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Marsannay Grasse Tetes ($39.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802