2005 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Brand

Reticent but complex nose comes across as fresher and deeper than that of the '04. Concentrated, fresh and deep, with a touch of youthful austerity. The orange and spice flavors show very good intensity and linger nicely on the back. This is not yet expressing its personality, but there's solid structure here for aging. A big boy, with 14.4% alcohol and about nine grams of residual sugar.

The 2005 Pinot Gris Brand smells spicy, smoky, and carnal, with ripe peach suggestions. Less rich or satisfying today than its 2004 counterpart, it harbors low-level sweetness and firm underlying structure that should serve it well in the bottle over the next 7-10 years.||Under the viticultural direction of Jean Meyer’s son-in-law Christopher Ehrhart, this domaine has embraced biodynamic methods. Stylistic sensitivity, concern with cuisine compatibility, a special fondness for that underdog variety Auxerrois, and staggered release of wines continue to distinguish this fine estate, which in recent years has curtailed its negotiant activities. Many of the 2005 wines here were showing considerable reticence, which could represent a phase in their collective evolution. (Due to time constraints, I unfortunately did not have opportunity to taste the complete collective offerings of vintages 2004 and 2005 from this address, but any wine I tasted is referred to in the course of my coverage, even if it is not singled-out for a score.) Wine Advocate.February, 2008