2002 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques

The 2002 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru is just a tiny bit smudged on the nose, but it rectifies that with aeration, offering disarming brambly red fruit, bergamot and potpourri scents, just a slight ferrous tincture in the background. The palate is fine-boned with pure red fruit, structured and slightly disjointed initially. Yet it coheres magnificently in the glass, so smooth. I was shocked when the vintage was revealed because this bottle suggests a very slow evolution. Wonderful. Tasted blind at the Wallace brothers' Xmas dinner.

Good medium red. Sexy evolution to the aromas of balsamic plum, game, mocha and truffley underbrush. Plush, silky and sweet, and fresher in the mouth than the nose suggests even if the wine is not as floral as I had hoped. Perfect right now but has the mineral support to keep it going for a long time. This very rich premier cru finishes with serious but suave tannins and superb length. Consistent from start to finish.