2009 Alto Moncayo
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I tend to drink Alto Moncayo during its first 5-6 years of life. Although I was sure they had aging potential, I did not realize just how much longevity these wines possess. They are generally full-bodied, powerful (with at least 15.5% natural alcohol), concentrated, rich wines made from very old vines and tiny yields. If you are not into flavor concentration or care about artisanal wines from great terroirs that have been ignored for centuries, this may not be the wine for you. Not one of these ten vintages was close to full maturity. I gave perfect scores to the prodigious 2007 and 2009, two of the greatest expressions of old vine Grenache from the province of Aragon that anyone could have desire. The both possess plenty of black raspberry, blackberry, kirsch and licorice characteristics as well as an undeniable minerality and precision that are remarkable given their full-bodied, massive concentration and intensity. This was a great opportunity to look at one of the flagship wines of importer Jorge Ordonez’s portfolio. Alto Moncayo is a 100% old vine Grenache cuvee (900-1,000 cases produced depending on the vintage) that is a joint project between Jorge Ordonez and Barossa winemaker, Chris Ringland. Five generations of vignerons have farmed over 210 acres of primarily old vine Grenache at Alto Moncayo, a wine that is produced from incredibly low yields of 500 grams of grape bunches per vine. There are never more than six to eight bunches on these ancient head-pruned Grenache vines. The wine is fermented in open-top wood fermenters, and spends 19 months in 100% new oak prior to being bottled unfiltered. The fruit is all destemmed. I tasted these ten vintages of Alto Moncayo in September, and I was blown away by how well they were showing. Importer: Jorge Ordonez Selections,Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767: email:corporate@jorgeordonez.com
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Robert Parker
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
(100% garnacha; aged in new oak, 60% French and 40% American): Bright ruby. Sexy red berry and floral aromas are complicated by hints of vanilla and cola. Fleshy raspberry and blueberry flavors are nicely framed by gentle tannins. Gains sweetness and depth with air, finishing with suave notes of floral pastilles and vanilla and slow-building tannins. This is surprisingly elegant given its heft.
Even richer and more concentrated, with a slightly more serious feel, the 2009 Bodegas Alto Moncayo Campo de Borja boast rocking aromatics of smoked blackberries, campfire, meat juice, graphite, and chocolate to go with a full-bodied, seamless, and beautifully pure and polished palate. This 100% Garnacha has no hard edges, a light, weightless texture, ripe tannin, and a long, hedonistic finish. Certainly, along the same lines as the Veraton with its sweetness of fruit and overall purity, yet there’s more richness and depth through the mid-palate, as well as additional structure on the finish. While it is a hedonistic turn on now, it should nevertheless continue to shine for upwards of a decade.
Ridiculously potent, and in an unnecessarily heavy bottle (like its stablemate Veraton), but very winning and round and sweet. You definitely don't need cheap chocolate-infused Merlot if you can get your hands on this more natural form of a blend of cocoa and port. I'd suggest this with cheese – though am about to try it with quite a spicy chicken curry. (JR)