2005 Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos

From a complex gravel melange on the left bank of the Vienne, Joguet’s 2005 Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos had been racked from barrel and assembled in tank when I tasted. Redolent in its sweet and smoky way of machine oil, as well as black currant, blackberry, resin and herbs, this displays a mouthful of juicy fruit and fine tannins as well as subtly wafting florality and hints of fruit pit bitterness. A sappy, resinous, tartly-fruited and pungently herbal finish clings with an almost white-wine like combination of refreshment and tenacity that may strike some tasters as austere. This should grow up to be very interesting and continuingly delicious Cabernet Franc, no doubt worth following for at least 5-7 years. Charles Joguet personally retired from winemaking nearly a decade ago. Less than two years ago, his long-time right-hand, Michel Pinard, turned over vineyard and cellar direction to seven-year veteran Francois-Xavier Barc. The best of the current crops here are highly satisfying and Barc is clearly quality-conscious, harboring impressive intentions for the future evolution of this traditionally bench-mark estate. Several fruitier reds from alluvial and gravel soils are raised in tank, and those from better sites undergo malolactic fermentation and maturation in barrels of assorted age. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524