1989 Tertre Roteboeuf

The 1989 Le Tertre-Rôteboeuf is a vintage that I have not encountered for many years. Provenance probably plays a part, and this magnum was stored on release by François Mitjavile’s UK agent. It has a deep hue with little aging on the rim and thick tears in the glass. The bouquet is broody at first, then bursts open with dark cherry, raspberry, morels and crushed stone, offering more blue fruit as it gradually responds to aeration. The structured, concentrated palate conveys a sense of beguiling symmetry. It is beautifully balanced with layers of black fruit infused with black truffle and hints of white pepper, and its satin texture belies the backbone on the finish that will ensure that well-stored bottles like this will give another 20 years of drinking pleasure. Superb. (NM)