2009 Barolo Garblet Sue
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Tasting notes
Medium red. Wild, ripe aromas of red berries, plum, truffle and game. Rich and broad but currently less shapely and delineated than the Villero, not to mention less showy. Shows a larger structure reflecting its Castiglione origin, but this is also harder to taste today. The big tannins are less fine than those of the Villero. Elena Brovia points out that this wine is made in exactly the same way as the Villero and Garblet Sue, so the differences are entirely a function of terroir.
Critic scores
Average Score
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2009 Barolo Garblet Sue’ raises the ante with little more spice and up-front fruit, dark herbs, blue flower, hazelnut and wet underbrush. The wine does a great job of mirroring its territory in terms of aromas, but again, it needs a little more momentum in the mouth. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2020. Spaniard Alex Sanchez is Piedmont’s favorite expat winemaker. His entree into the world of Barolo is by marriage, but his story fits seamlessly into the tale of father-and-son succession that drives this storied wine region. Brovia was founded in 1863 by grandfather Giacinto Brovia who left the property to his son Antonio. The heir died prematurely and the winery ceased to function for 20 years until Antonio’s son (named Giacinto after his grandfather) was able to restart the legacy. One of Giacinto’s two daughters, Elena, was next to take the baton. Her husband, MBA graduate Alex Sanchez, was quickly folded into the fray and has since become the soul (and smile) of the estate. The current lineup shows some exciting highlights (notably the Barolo Ca’ Mia with its exceptional beauty) but, all in all, the wines were not at the levels I had anticipated. The traditional style of the wine, normally so fine, silky and elegant, tasted thin and lean instead – possibly the result of those firm, slightly unhinged, 2009 tannins. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (518) 207-9100
Iron, tar, scorched earth, smoke and game waft from the glass as the 2009 Barolo Garblèt Sue' opens up. The ferrous notes typical of this site come through loud and clear in the 2009. At the same time, the 2009 is surprisingly soft. At times delicate and even ethereal, the 2009 appears to be heavily marked by the vintage. I wouldn't hold this for too long.
The 2009 Barolo Garblet Sue’ raises the ante with little more spice and up-front fruit, dark herbs, blue flower, hazelnut and wet underbrush. The wine does a great job of mirroring its territory in terms of aromas, but again, it needs a little more momentum in the mouth. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2020. Jun 2013, www.robertparker.com