1961 Dom Ruinart

The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir clusters were off to a promising start and had good setting, but the sluggish start of flowering dashed hopes for a bountiful harvest. Poor set and shatter showed up in numerous sectors of the vineyard. Magnificent summer weather allowed the grapes to mature perfectly. Excellent conditions continued as the vendanges began on September 20th. The grapes were in superb health, raising hopes for a remarkable vintage. Harvest: Baumé 10°1 GL – Total acidity 6.5 g/l H2SO4 – S/A 26.2 Chardonnay: Baumé 10°3 GL – Total acidity 6.3 g/l H2SO4 Yield: 8,440 kg/ha Assemblage: 100% Chardonnay Grand Cru, exclusively from the Côte des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims. Frédéric is worried because the two bottles promised to them turned out to be one, so we share a glass between two. Index of sugar over acidity is very high. Only 2003 has a higher index. Neat and marvellous and heady and dry yet fully ripe. Neat and haunting and really lovely. Such life and density and subtlety. Excellent! (JR)