2010 Meursault Clos des Ambres

Lemon and a whiff of toasted bread on the nose. Silky and tangy in the mouth, with ripe, aromatic flavors of orange and lemon oil. This suave, very long wine has the balance to give early pleasure but should really be cellared for at least a few years.

Ente’s 2010 Meursault Le Clos des Ambres is impeccable. It is also quite closed in on itself. Today, it is the minerality that dominates, but there is no denying the wine’s pedigree and sheer class. With air, the aromas and flavors become vivid, nuanced and breathtakingly beautiful. The airy, ethereal finish is the stuff dreams are made of. This is simply drop-dead gorgeous. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. (Not yet released) This is a stunning set of wines from Arnaud Ente. The 2010s stand out for their transparency, expressiveness and purity. Ente began bringing in his wines on September 15. Yields were down about 30% on average. Ente gave the 2010s 12 months in oak followed by 7-8 months in steel. The wines were all bottled in April 2012. There are a handful of more famous domaines in Meursault, but few that can equal the level of the stunning wines found at this small, family run estate that captures the essence of the Burgundian vigneron spirit. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

Very pale. A much more opulent nose than most Ente 2010s. Hint of putty. Manages both purity and density. Almost painful acidity on the finish though. Chewy finish but the high level of extract promises well for the future. [Tasted again on 10 Jan 2012 at BBR, and looking very dramatic and tight.] (JR)