2007 Meursault Clos des Ambres
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Tasting notes
The 2007 Meursault Clos des Ambres has a pale hue considering that it is now already ten years old. The nose is effervescent with Granny Smith apple and Japanese yuzu scents, lime and a light flinty note. Perhaps a little more vigor would enhance the aromatics? The palate is spicy on the entry, veins of lemongrass infusing the citrus fruit, slightly bitter with a tang of lemon sherbet towards the finish that needs a little more length. Not bad at all, although I feel there ought to be more terroir expression. Tasted at Tin Dinh restaurant in Paris.
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Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Neal Martin
More reviews and scores
Lime and yellow plum in the nose of Ente's 2007 Meursault Clos des Ambres lead to a palate impression at once austere and adamantly mineral, but also refreshingly bright and saliva-inducing. Toasted almond and sunflower seed along with pungent citrus rind and a hint of smoke are suggested in the bright, treble finish of this wine that some tasters are apt to consider "Meursault Lite" or too lean a cut of its appellation, while others will relish its athletic trimness and energy. I suspect those who gravitate toward this wine will enjoy it for 4-6 years. Arnaud Ente began picking September 2, but although he is nearly always a partisan of early harvest, this one was spread out over nearly two weeks to optimize the aggregation of clarity and sufficient ripeness. That said, high acidity – including a sizeable share of malic acid – remained a common denominator and higher than in 2004 because, in Ente's words, "there was no heat during the summer to burn it off." His malo-lactic fermentations, however, were finished already in mid-winter. Natural alcohol levels were low – predictably, given both the vintage and Ente's strategy and preferences – not exceeding 12.5%, and only the Aliogte was chaptalized. For Ente, vintages without hot summer weather are simply the more interesting and enjoyable, thanks in large part precisely to their higher acidity and lower alcohol. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524
Aromas of lemon, pineapple, ginger, quinine and crushed stone. Supple and perfumed on entry, then firm and citric in the middle, with a mineral spine to the lemon and pineapple flavors. More bracing but less sweet and fleshy than the village wine-and in need of some patience.
Clos des Ambres is the name of the cuvée, it's not a lieu dit. From the best part of En l'Ormeau (planted 1951), in the middle, where the soil is thinner and generally drier. Steely and fine, fine citrus, even a touch of grapefruit. Great precision and then more volume and riches in the mouth. Great depth and power in a really fine elegant line. Long spicy, zesty and incisive finish. Great purity and only 12.5%. (JH)