1993 Gevrey Chambertin

Rated, but no tasting note. I have derived modest enjoyment from Mortet's elegant, finesse-styled red burgundies and thought he had the potential to be one of the stars of Gevrey-Chambertin. Since I published my book on Burgundy in 1990, I have to say that the quality appears to have stalled at a pleasant, but uninspiring level. As do many Burgundy growers, Mortet has traditionally relied on the Kisselguhr system of filtration, but his American importer, Martine Saunier, has recently persuaded him to abandon the practice. Consequently, his 1993s are among the darkest-colored wines he has made. They are all capable of 6-10 years of cellaring. Importer: Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800