2005 Barolo Case Nere

The 2005 Barolo Case Nere is a dark, brooding wine redolent of charred notes, tar, smoke, spices and dark fruit. This bruising, heavyweight Barolo offers tons of intensity and muscle, but the brooding style could use a touch more elegance. Still, the wine possesses terrific harmony and plenty of personality. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. Enzo Boglietti is a young producer on the rise. Work continues to move forward on the new cellar, and more importantly, the wines are better than ever as was evidenced by the 2006s and 2007s I tasted from barrel and this gorgeous set of 2005s. Boglietti gives his Barolos 12-18 months in French oak barrels then moves the wines into larger 15-20 hectoliter casks where they finish their aging. As new oak levels have come down the wines have gained notable expressiveness and depth that was sometimes missing in prior vintages. In 2005 Boglietti brought in part of the fruit before the rains, and part after. His 2005s are built on freshness rather than structure, and offer terrific balance. In 2005 there is no Barolo Brunate as the vineyards are undergoing replanting. Boglietti does have a Riserva in the cellar made from the best fruit in the Fossati and Case Nere vineyards. The first vintage, the 2004, will be released next year. Based on what I tasted from barrel, it is a promising wine. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2005 Barolo Case Nere is a dark, brooding wine redolent of charred notes, tar, smoke, spices and dark fruit. This bruising, heavyweight Barolo offers tons of intensity and muscle, but the brooding style could use a touch more elegance. Still, the wine possesses terrific harmony and plenty of personality. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. Apr 2009, www.robertparker.com