2005 Mouton Rothschild

The 2005 Mouton Rothschild is composed of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-brick in color, it soars from the glass with an opulent, flamboyant nose of blackcurrant cordial, black cherry preserves, and violets with licorice, espresso, and clove oil in the background. Medium to full-bodied, this is a more structured face of Mouton, delivering a firm backbone of ripe, grainy tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and decadent. Still so youthful, this is just the opening act for this show-stopper, but what an entrance! Drink it now to 2060+. Philippine de Rothchild was still in charge of the estate at this time and Philippe Dhalluin, who started in 2004, was the winemaker.

This is pure pleasure, with tiny pulses of electricity, brushed leather, sulphur, loam, truffle, blackberry, black cherry, with touches of silky tannins, smoked caramel and black chocolate. A wine that makes you smile, so much depth and power, barely out of its primary phase, but we are starting now to get the whole picture of what it will become. There is a lush edge to the tannins now that was not the case even two years ago. Such a different expression from the 2009 and 2010 Mouton, with this a little more old school in its charms, and for me you can now project yourself foraward, more like the 1986, a little dry and strict at first, but finessed and gorgeous, delivering grip, punch and magic. Eric Tourbier and Philippe Dhalluin on the technical team. 63% first wine, extremely low for the time (lowest since 1975, whereas today they are regularly below 50%). If you are going to open this anytime soon, think of it as a bottle to enjoy very slowly over four or five hours seeing the nuances develop. 100% new oak.

Mouton was voluptuous and immediately appealing, with spicy ripe cassis and plum fruit that poured from the glass, surrounded by liquorice, coconut, and toasted cedar. The texture was not abrasive but very full-bodied and round. The tannins initially appeared fine-grained and silky, but with a bit of time, one realised the immense structure of this wine. Impressively concentrated and very long on the finish, this is still youthful and should age for decades to come. The blend is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon with 14% Merlot, with a touch of Cabernet Franc. The picking for the grand vin started on 21 September for the Merlot and finished with the Cabernets on 3 October.