2004 Mouton Rothschild

The 2004 Mouton-Rothschild was the first vintage for Philippe Dhalluin, who was so successful in persuading the late Philippine de Rothschild to institute a more strict selection with respect to Mouton-Rothschild. The outstanding 2004 exhibits delicious notes of cedarwood, Christmas fruitcake, blackcurrants and toast. The wine possesses outstanding concentration, medium to full body, excellent purity, hints of forest floor and underbrush, and sweet, velvety tannin. It is on a fast evolutionary track, so consume this over the next 10-15 years. Dec 2014, www.robertparker.com, Drnk: 2014-2029

Last tasted three or four years ago, the 2004 Mouton-Rothschild is a satisfactory wine, even if in my opinion it pales again subsequent success in so-called "challenging" vintages such as 2006 or 2008. It came across tight and broody on the nose, a hint of seaweed tincturing the black fruit, later on a whiff of smoke. It does not feel as refined as either the 2004 Lafite-Rothschild or the 2004 Latour. The palate is medium-bodied and shows more class than the aromatics: cohesive and with just the right amount of grip, a little chewy perhaps but with a pleasant saline sensation towards the "correct" finish. It ticks all the boxes but does not go that extra mile. Tasted September 2016. Mar 2017, www.robertparker.com

Dhalluin’s first 100% harvest. Picked the young vines separately and sacrificed them. A transition vintage. 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 14% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot. Wanted to avoid a revolution. Very strict selection. Just 50% of the total crop. ‘My predecessor was allowed to make far more Mouton. Very good, very Mouton nose. Mouton has an advantage in cooler years because of our sunny terroir. But in very hot vintages, we have to work very hard and be very careful to avoid overripeness. We always have two to three days in advance.’ Dark crimson. Fresh and gorgeous. Ready. Just very very slightly stringy on the end. Jul 2015, www.jancisrobinson.com, Drink: 2014-2028