2009 Rosso di Montalcino

Biondi-Santi’s 2009 Rosso di Montalcino is gorgeous. Sweet red raspberries, strawberries, flowers and spices mesh together in a delicate Rosso of notable complexity and class. Like so many wines in this vintage, the Rosso is a bit light in color and structure, but the definition of flavors and the wine’s overall textural elegance are notable. This is class and elegance personified. At the time of this tasting, Franco Biondi Santi had not decided if he would bottle a Riserva version of his Brunello. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. Sadly, Franco Biondi Santi passed away just a few short weeks after my most recent visit to Il Greppo. I tasted with Franco Biondi Santi several times over the years. Always impeccably dressed and aristocratic in demeanor, Biondi Santi was unfailingly polite but also passionate in his advocacy of tradition. Biondi Santi would always accompany me throughout the cellar, tasting through all the vintages in barrel, even though advancing age clearly took a toll on his energy level toward the end of his life. Despite his age, Biondi Santi ran Il Greppo with an iron fist. The winery was always clean and well-maintained. Nothing happened at the estate without his explicit approval. I saw that once again first hand when I visited earlier this year. As was the custom when he was ill during one of my tastings, we always spoke by phone before I left the property. Mentally, Biondi Santi was as engaged as always. Today, the young Biondi Santi Brunellos appear less massively tannic and impenetrable than they have in the past. My February tasting ended with the 2012s from cask. For those who haven’t heard, 2012 is a potentially outstanding vintage in Montalcino. If the wine I tasted in cask is as phenomenal in bottle, it will be a fitting conclusion to a brilliant career. Importer: Vision Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ; tel. (201) 210-0400

Garnet with pale orange-tinged rim. Earthy and slow to emerge on the nose. Takes its time and a little bit dusty. Old school and nothing of that flashy fruit. Integrated acidity, which just peeps up again on the finish. Fruit concentration and very good balancing grainy tannins. Ends a little stalky so even at this level patience is required. (WS)