1996 Barolo Villero di Castiglione Falletto

For many years, the 1996 Barolo Villero was the poor man's (or woman's) great Giacosa, as it delivered all the classic Giacosa signatures and yet was priced well below his better known wines. Sadly, that time is long gone. As for the 1996 Villero, it is still fabulous. An exotic mélange of spice and balsamic notes make a strong opening statement. The 1996 has always had crazy aromatics, as is the case again tonight. Translucent and inviting, with tons of Nebbiolo character, the 1996 speaks to the truest essence of this Castiglione Falletto site. This is another superb 1996 from Bruno Giacosa. Sadly, the 1996 is also the last Barolo Giacosa made from Villero. And we are all poorer for that. (AG)

Giacosa’s 1996 Barolo Villero was incredibly shut down and tight, yet the intensity of color and perfume suggested it was marvelously intact, but not in a mood to show its pedigree.

The 1996 Barolo Villero should be used to teach a course in what great Barolo smells like. It possesses a classic, rose petal, melted tar, and cherry liqueur-scented nose that soars from the glass. In the mouth, it exhibits licorice, black cherry fruit, fruitcake, spice box, and other assorted nuances in its profoundly complex personality. Full-bodied and marvelously concentrated with exquisite harmony, this appears to be a fabulously young Barolo that will age effortlessly for three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2035. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620