2009 Pinot Noir Buntsandstein

E & M's premium wines are produced in homoepathic quantities of 500 bottles each. The name Buntsandstein indicates that this version is grown on pure red sandstone (pictured above left) with just a thin top layer of humus. Yields are as low as 30 hl/ha. Colour is pale cherry red with a blood-orangy tinge on the rim. To gain access to the intricacies of the Buntsandstein at this early stage, a minimum of 24 hours decanting is recommended. Even after six hours it remained very closed, but given more time began to reveal delicate aromas of herbs and once again a slightly nutty scent of gentle toasting. Though any fruit was understandably still buried under an austere layer of tannin, bitter chocolate and almonds reminded me of another, slightly more fattening, passion of mine. Substance and length were outstanding. As there is so little of it, it's academic to say that at €27.50 it is underpriced. (MS)