2006 Clos de la Roche

Cedar, concentrated beef bouillon, liqueur-like black fruits and quarry dust rise from the glass of Laurent's 2006 Clos De La Roche Vieilles Vignes, whose three growers are situated in what he calls "the Clos within the 'Clos'." Words like "sap," "energy," or "concentration" are too bland to employ here, but I can tell you there is neither charm nor refinement. There is however a remarkable sense of fresh fruit clarity, through which you watch, awestruck, as this wine's forces set to work, demonstrating a grip that practically shakes your entire mouth, even though it would seem to take brute force to move such a mass of meat reduction, and rock as confront you here. This Stone Guest on your palate will have you whistling like Don Giovanni. I'd steer clear of it for at least 4-5 years and anticipate awesome visits for subsequent dozen or more. Where it leads, follow – not that you'll dare to resist. Dominique Laurent – whose methodology I attempted to clarify in a bit more detail in my report for issue 171 – purchased fewer wines in 2006 (not all of which I tasted) than he had in 2005, particularly at the lower end of the classificatory spectrum and in the Cote de Beaune. On the other hand, there were some correspondingly sweet opportunities, he noted, to expand acquisitions in top-notch crus due to initial hesitation of many negociants to buy heavily into this vintage. Laurent was highly enthusiastic about the quality of the wines he did raise, which in the glass often proved even more infectious than his enthusiasm – and that's saying something! What's more, although these wines – generally produced in 50-250 case quantities – have a reputation for high prices, most of these 2006s – especially in their upper-echelons – strike me as exhibiting excellent price:quality rapport. While absence of chaptalization and absence of sulfur during the elevage remain constant features this year, less of the wine Laurent purchased and raised from 2006 was vinified with stems than in most years. Vieilles Vignes," incidentally, is used like a brand name chez Laurent, referring to all of his better wines, whereas his "Tradition" line – none of which I tasted – consists of cuvees rendered in slightly larger volumes and exclusively for the French market. Since the words "Vieilles Vignes" are prominently displayed on the label, I have included them as part of each wine's description, although one will often see Laurent's same top wines referred to without that designation. Imported by Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327-0808