2009 Montrose

Made by Nicolas Glumineau with advice from Jean-Bernard Delmas ex Ch Haut-Brion and oenologist Eric Boissenot. Glumineau was at the event where all these 2009s were shown and told me that this was the first vintage that contained no press wine, though pointed out that the quality of press wine has evolved considerably over the last few years. Deep crimson. Introvert with a very concentrated but convincing nose. Edgy and very St-Estèphe in character. Complex. Dry but not drying finish. (JR)

The 2009 Château Montrose is just pure perfection, and it doesn't get any better. This magical Saint- Estèphe is still youthful yet offers incredible pleasure in its assorted black and red fruits as well as notes of smoked tobacco, licorice, graphite, and scorched earth. A wine that has always been open and satisfying since release, it's still full-bodied and has a broad, expansive, velvety mouthfeel, gorgeous and still present tannins, and a great, great finish. It's a richer, more expansive wine compared to the more focused, classic 2010. Unquestionably one of the finest wines in the vintage, as well as one of the legendary wines from this address, it should evolve for another 40-50 years, although don't let that stop you from opening a bottle!

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Harvested 17 Sept to 5 Oct. Dense, dark, almost black colour. Ripe and alluring on the nose with cassis, spice and cedar notes. Round, full and mouth-coating on the palate with a quantity of pronounced tannin buried behind. Stays fresh despite the alcohol. Great persistence. Approachable now but clearly built for ageing. More dramatic than 2010. (JL)