2010 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre

Zesty, limey and bright, the Michel 2010 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre is suffused with mouthwatering and intriguing chicken stock and oyster liqueur that milk my salivary glands for all that they are worth. Silken in texture yet bright, it finishes with invigorating cherry pit piquancy, tingling refreshment, and at least hints at the sort of vibratory energy I associate with Les Clos. Look to follow this still youthful-acting beauty through 2020. I heard skepticism voiced by some seasoned observers of the Chablis scene as to the Michel wines would fare in 2012, given that this estate relies to a significant extent on machine harvest. The short answer is, very well, if – unsurprisingly – not quite so well as in such recent vintages as 2007, 2008, 2010, or probably ultimately also 2011. But considering the consistent quality that Guillaume Cicqueau-Michel’s uncle and predecessor as director, Jean-Loup Michel, achieved in precarious 2006 (which I reported on in issue 179), surely it’s time to bury prejudice based on methodological or even ideological preconceptions and give this domaine the benefit of the doubt even in years when you suspect that a dearth of hand-harvesters might have proven to be at least a slight handicap. Young Cicqueau-Michel cited a litany of difficulties in 2012, to be sure, but the upshot of these was principally diminution in quantity (in certain crus by half) rather than quality. The premier crus – which, incidentally, finished at between 12.9%-13.5% alcohol – are expected to be bottled this September, and the grand crus around the end of the year or early next. Exclusively spontaneous fermentation has been a fact here now for five vintages, but even if the indigenous yeast population is strengthening, Michel reports that fermentations continue to be slower than they were prior to 2008. That said, they still typically finish in January. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802