2009 Piesporter Goldtropchen Spatlese

Bottled later and to be released later than the A.P. #13, the analytically practically identical Haart 2009 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese A.P. #14 (which in fact incorporates some “overflow” from the A.P. #13 lot) is decisively stony in a manner that serves as a perfect sounding-board for ripe cassis, pineapple, and pink grapefruit. And speaking of flavors mineral, the salty streak here lends saliva-drawing invigoration leading to a superbly long, refreshing finish that will send you almost compulsively back for the next sip. Expect this to flourish for the better part of a quarter century. Theo and Johannes Haart’s harvest commenced mid-October, and although it continued for nearly three weeks, they reported that rain arrived a bit earlier and more heavily here than elsewhere on the Mosel, so they were happy to have been almost entire done by then. Must weights of their exceedingly small crop were high from the get-go, so that care had to be taken in Piesport (stubbornly high-acid Wintrich was another matter) lest there be too much alcohol in the resultant dry wines or too little acidity. The Spatlesen were typically harvested a week later than the corresponding Kabinetts, yet seldom at significantly higher must weights. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463