2008 Piesporter Goldtropchen Spatlese

Just as at the Kabinett level, the Haarts bottled two analytically nearly identical but sensorially quite distinct Spatlesen from their most famous site, of which the 2008 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese A.P. #12 is the more vivacious and irresistible, if not the more complex. Pink grapefruit, pineapple, pear, and almond extract on the nose migrate to a luscious, subtly creamy yet brightly refreshing palate, shot through with saline and crustacean-reduction elements. Chewy suggestions of fruit skin, zest, and salt make for an ultra-invigorating and protracted finish, especially considering how ripe and rich this at the same time seems. I would plan on satisfaction for two decades from this. “I think the best grapes I harvested in 2008 were in the last week of October,” opines Theo Haart, “and after that the flavors weren’t quite as good. Frankly, the vines and bunches looked a bit fatigued at that point, and the resultant wines lacked a bit of vivacity.” If this is correct, then most of the residually sweet wines in this year’s amazing collection must have been picked before November! Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800 596 9463