2004 Estate Chardonnay

The 2004 reveals the shortest, most abrupt finish of any wine in this vertical. Still young and medium to full-bodied, its notes of white peaches, crushed rocks, mandarin, corn and honeysuckle remind me of Coche-Dury’s Corton-Charlemagne. It is a lovely wine, although it is more narrowly constructed than the greatest vintages of Marcassin Estate. Marcassin Winery, P.O. Box 302, Calistoga, CA 94515; tel. (707) 258-3608; fax (707) 942-5633

Pale yellow-green. Knockout nose combines stone fruits, minerals, fresh herbs, honey, flowers, grilled nuts and earth. Round and lush yet racy and light on its feet, with compelling flavors of pineapple, grapefruit and crushed stone. A huge but classy wine with considerable finesse. Wonderfully rich yet subtle on the back end, where it stains the palate with fruits, minerals and soil tones.

To quote my original tasting note, the 2004 Pinot Noir Marcassin Estate is -utterly profound.- Still youthful, this adolescent hits all the sweet spots on the palate as well as the olfactory senses. Dense plum/purple-colored with notes of Asian soy, porcini mushrooms, roasted meats, barbecue spices and lots of blueberry, plum, raspberry and black currant fruit, it is a deep, full-bodied, opulent tour de force in winemaking. Its youthfulness suggests it will continue to drink beautifully for at least another 15-20 years. Wine Advocate.June, 2014