2007 Meursault

A complementary blending of fruit from Ormeau and Casse-Tete, Ente’s 2007 Meursault evinces lemon, herbs, salt, and chalk, but with a striking shrimp shell reduction-like savor. Lean but refreshing and texturally polished, this displays tart peach, plum, and citrus that compliment its mineral diversity in a lingering finish. I suspect it will take on some richness in another year or two and be worth employing for 4-5 years. Arnaud Ente began picking September 2, but although he is nearly always a partisan of early harvest, this one was spread out over nearly two weeks to optimize the aggregation of clarity and sufficient ripeness. That said, high acidity – including a sizeable share of malic acid – remained a common denominator and higher than in 2004 because, in Ente's words, "there was no heat during the summer to burn it off." His malo-lactic fermentations, however, were finished already in mid-winter. Natural alcohol levels were low – predictably, given both the vintage and Ente's strategy and preferences – not exceeding 12.5%, and only the Aliogte was chaptalized. For Ente, vintages without hot summer weather are simply the more interesting and enjoyable, thanks in large part precisely to their higher acidity and lower alcohol. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524