2007 Meursault

Combining as usual fruit from Les Chaumes de Narvaux, Les Pellans on the Puligny border, and a bit of Les Forges opposite Monthelie, Pierre Morey’s 2007 Meursault smells and tastes as if cut from the same lovely cloth as his Morey-Blanc Meursault, with mouth-watering, bright citrus playing against toasted nuts and grain, salt and stone. Rather lean, but infectiously juicy and energizing, it should be enjoyable for at least 4-5 years. For the second year, Morey has essayed a bottling from a small parcel beneath the Gouttes d’Or, a lot he initially separated because of having converted its farming to biodynamic methods ahead of his other village level vineyards. “For me, 2007 represents a compromise between 2004 and 1999,” says Pierre Morey, “though I suppose,” he adds, “there is a bit of 1996 in them. We picked some of our vineyards on the same day as we had in 2003, but what a difference!” He bottled his 2007s in late Spring, a few weeks after his negociant Morey-Blanc wines. (For reviews of the latter, consult the separate coverage in this report.) Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Very pale color. Peach and citrus fruits on the musky nose, along with a suggestion of hazelnut and some smoky reduction. Round and ripe but fresh, with musky white peach and apricot flavors framed by firm acidity and solid underlying minerality Finishes with sneaky length and an invigorating quality. Excellent village wine.

Will be bottled in March according to the biodynamic calendar. Big and round and lip-smacking. Perhaps not the most refined, indeed almost like old fashioned BIG Meursaults! Pretty chewy still... (JR)