1997 Chianti Classico Riserva

I was knocked out by the exceptional quality of the 1997 Chianti Classico Riserva. Made from 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo, it spends part of its 24-month cask aging in once-used French oak casks. The wine reminded me of what Chianti might taste like if it were made in Pomerol. The vintage has a lot to do with the fruit's opulent, succulent character, but this wine shows plenty of complex vanilla, herb, and black cherry fruit, with a noteworthy suggestion of roasted meat juices. Dense and full-bodied, with terrific fruit, high glycerin levels, and a chewy, plush texture, this is about as hedonistic and sumptuous a Chianti as one is likely to find. Drink it over the next 7-10 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620