1998 Dom Perignon

These four vintages of Dom Pérignon provide a fascinating snapshot of how the house has performed in recent years. The 1998 Dom Pérignon comes across as somewhat two–dimensional and lacking the sheer cut of the 2000. There is plenty of ripeness in the fruit, but not quite the definition and verve of the finest vintages. This looks to be a relatively early-drinking Dom Pérignon. Geoffroy adds that the estate may have waited a bit too long to pick certain parcels in 1998.

Light greenish gold. First bottle corked. Flirtatious and lively nose. Really quite aromatic! Then a bit sweet on the front palate. Still quite tight. May unwind to something much more exciting though the fruit doesn’t seem the freshest or zestiest. I wonder whether this is a cork problem? (JR)

A stronger vintage than expected, the 1998 Dom Perignon exhibits aromas and flavors of lemon oil, orange rind, and brioche in a medium-bodied, zesty, rich, moderately intense style. It is far superior to either the 1993 or 1992. Readers should remember that the 1971 Dom Perignon Rose is still drinking exquisitely. I recently had the 1969 and 1970 Dom Perignons (from magnum), and both were drinking brilliantly. It makes one realize just how long-lived these wines can be. Production is confidential, but there must be hundreds of thousands of cases of Dom Perignon since it available in most of the world’s luxury hotels and restaurants. Importer: Moet-Hennessy, USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200.