1990 Alzero

Quintarelli is the master winemaker behind the artisanally-made, gloriously rich wines of Valpolicella. He makes a tiny quantity of late-harvested, extremely rich, concentrated 100% Cabernet Franc. I first learned of this wine a decade ago, and I purchased several bottles of the 1983, also a super wine. In fact, after tasting the super-concentrated, full-bodied, massively-endowed 1990, I pulled a bottle of the 1983 to see how it is aging. The amber-free color is followed by a glorious array of cedar, red and black fruits, spice, truffle, and exotic Far East spices. The wine is as young as I remember it at release, which bodes well for the 1990, an even more concentrated and impressive example. Perhaps the only way I can effectively articulate what this wine tastes like would be the following: imagine Cheval Blanc (1) picked at even higher sugars than it was in a great vintage like 1990 or 1982, (2) given more aging before release, and (3) bottled with no fining or filtration! The 1990 Alzero possesses a thick, viscous, purple color, an unctuous texture, fabulous purity, and gobs of black fruits intermingled with aromas of licorice, truffles, and roasted meats. Unbelievably rich, yet totally dry, this should prove to be one of the rarest, most provocative, and profound dry red wines to emerge from Italy. Although approachable enough to drink, it is still an infant in terms of its evolution. It will not hit full stride for another 10-15 years. As is the case with all these limited production wines, there are only several hundred cases available. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185