2005 Chablis Valmur

This is more expressive than usual, featuring a hint of wood spice and the usual gorgeously elegant cool green fruit, oyster shell and saline notes that introduce unusually big and powerful flavors that are naturally sweet, intense and like the majority of these '05s, possesses buckets of dry extract. The finish just oozes with minerality and the intensity is almost painful as it really stains the palate. I noted last year that there was marvelous quality here and there was so much material that it could be even better than my range suggested. Well, I agree with my initial prediction as the Valmur is indeed better in bottle than it was from cask and a flat out magnificent wine.

Pale yellow. Brisk, pure aromas of citrus skin, powdered stone, quinine and iodine. Juicy and citric on entry, then supple and rich in the middle, but with superb energy giving shape and grip to the lemon-lime, citrus, stone and floral flavors. Conveys an impression of sucrosite but also comes across as wonderfully fresh and taut. Pure, palate-dusting, rising finish boasts terrific lift and aromatic perfume. Valmur is favored in hot years, notes Raveneau. "The vines here run north-south, which enables them to resist the mid-day sun and retain freshness."

Powdered stone, spring flowers, mint and menthol on the nose. Fat, sweet and fresh, with superb depth and richness of fruit. This is already showing a lot of personality. Wonderfully dense without coming across as heavy. A distinctly supple style, not at all tough (the 2004 was much less accessible a year ago). This may go into a shell after the bottling.