2007 Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes

Honeysuckle, ripe white peach, and Persian melon mark the nose of Leflaive’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes, which suggests the same sense of sweetness and heady inner-mouth perfume as the Les Folatieres, but with a pronounced set of what can only be called mineral flavors: salt, chalk, and crustacean-like savor, all of which set up a fine palate interplay with the wine’s rich fruit. There is a sultry suggestion here, but pleasing, and not the actual hint of heat that was noticed in the Clavoillon. This too should be worth following for at least 6-8 years. Departing from the script of most vignerons I visited, Leflaive cellar master Eric Remy (who took over last year from Pierre Morey, with whom he has worked for several years) claimed his 2007 fruit – which he began picking September 1 – harbored a 2:1 ratio of tartaric to malic acidity (whereas, he adds, it was close to reversed in 2006). While some crop was lost to hail – particularly in Chevalier-Montrachet – Remy did not think this affected quality, and he had the same attitude toward mildew (combated here with biodynamic methods), which he said did not compromise the fruit. Alcohol levels largely hover below 14%, that is to say lower – regardless of cru – than any of the 2006s. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661