1995 Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes

My favorite of the Sauzet Puligny portfolio was the spectacular Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes. Because of high levels of millerandage (fruit embryos that were prevented from maturing due to the cold spell in May), Boudot only attained yields of 27 hectoliters per hectare (less than 2 tons per acre.). The result is a beautifully concentrated, spicy explosion of floral fruit that lingers on the palate. Aged in 40% new oak for 13 1/2 months, this powerful, complex, extracted, and full-bodied wine will provide enormous pleasure between now and 2010. The wine was bottled three days prior to my visit. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. An asterisk indicates that the wine was produced from vineyards owned by this domaine. No asterisk indicates that the wine was produced from purchased fruit, must, or wine. Boudot believes that what characterizes his lower and medium level wines in the 1995 vintage is abundant concentrated, dry extract fruit - without great balancing acid...I agree. He is extremely excited about the '96s, saying they "exhibit phenomenally concentrated fruit and great balancing acid. " Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT; tel (802) 875-2139.