2010 Chambolle Musigny Les Chatelots

(this finished its malolactic fermentation last, during the 2011 harvest): Good full red. Musky aromas of wild dark fruits, with a touch of reduction. Sweet and silky on entry, then quite tight in the middle, with firm acidity contributing to the impression of structure. The flavors of black cherry, mint, menthol and dark chocolate show good medicinal verve. The firm tannins here are more integrated than those of the Combottes.

The 2010 Chambolle-Musigny Les Chatelots comes across as big, powerful and quite structured. Dark cherries, spices and flowers are some of the notes that flow from the glass, but ultimately, the Chatelots is all about intense minerality and cut. The wine’s energy and nuance carry through to the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. This is a knock-out set of wines from Ghislaine Barthod. Yields were, of course, down significantly for the same reasons that affected every grower. The wines possess wonderful clarity and verve throughout the range. I will report on the 2009s from bottle in the April issue. For now, let me say both the 2009s and 2010s are fabulous. Readers who can find them should absolutely not hesitate. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990