2010 Magari Ca'Marcanda
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Tasting notes
The 2010 Magari is starting to show integrated and melding aromas, with a sweet concentration of black plum, wild sage, hay, leather, and mineral earth. It has concentration in its structure, with present though fully ripe tannins, and retains refreshing acidity. In this vintage, a larger proportion of Merlot was contributed to the blend and is perceived in its fleshy, broader mid-palate. Drink 2023-2038. When the Gaja family purchased their Bolgheri property in 1996, it was home to 10 hectares of vines planted to Sangiovese and Trebbiano. The rest of the land was dedicated to olive trees, peach trees, and cereal grains. Angelo Gaja was drawn to the region by several factors, including the small size of the region, which was always something he looked for when seeking out denominations outside of their Piedmont home. The Bolgheri DOC had recently been established in 1994 with only 1300 hectares in total. A very different region from Piedmont, Bolgheri has historically been land owned by noble people whereas Piedmont was a region of farmers. Thus, the Tuscans were more connected to international travel, and you find people with international names and sensibilities. Other differences include the incredibly varied soils, with 27 different types identified due to the erosion from the Colline Metalifere. Additionally, constant winds come through the region that help both with ventilation and temperature control of the vines. My tasting occurred at the Bolgheri winery in November of 2022, alongside Gaia Gaja, who has been instrumental in working alongside her siblings and their father across the properties. Whether it is in the vineyard or in the winery, the family and the team at Ca' Marcanda are consistently evolving to raise the bar with a measured and steady hand.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jeb Dunnuck
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
This vintage takes us back to a time when Magari was heavily based on Merlot. That grape was removed entirely from the blend in 2014 as concerns over climate change became pressing. Another difference is that the 2010 Magari is an IGT Toscana wine (its appellation changed to Bolgheri Rosso starting with the 2012 release). Compared to current vintages that are driven by Cabernet Franc, you absolutely taste the sweetness of the Merlot in this wine with baked cherry, baking spice and cured tobacco. However, this wine also features 25% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon (a grape that was slightly more penalized that year), and those varieties add more fruit weight and volume to what has become a medium-weight wine, tasted now with some age on it. In fact, 2010 was never super rich, and the wine has slimmed down nicely with bottle age.
The 2010 Magari emerges from the glass with juicy dark red berries, spices, flowers, licorice and mint. This, too, is a fairly medium-bodied wine for Ca'Marcanda that seems to favor floral notes and inner perfume over the more obvious, fruit-driven style that has been the norm here since inception. The round, seamless finish is quite attractive. Another year or two should help in better integrating the French oak.
About the producer

Gaja has been at the forefront of the Piedmont wine scene for many years and is Barbaresco’s most decorated producer. The winery has received a record number of Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri awards – the highest accolade from Italy’s leading wine publication.