2012 Marsannay Clos de Jeu

The 2012 Marsannay Clos du Jeu has a slightly more opulent bouquet compared to the Les Longeroies with mulberry, dark plum and raspberry scents all vying for attention. The palate is well-balanced and immediately convinces you of its superior breeding to the Les Longeroies, with an alluring saline finish that is both structured but does not short-change on fruit. This is a very fine Marsannay that I suspect will age with style. Drink 2015-2025. Since being introduced to this domaine’s wines last year courtesy of their commendable 2009s, I sought to taste their latest releases that are overseen by Charles’s son Cyril. He has been at the helm since 2000 and had the advantage of abundant old vine material at his disposal. There is plenty afoot at this address with a new state-of-the-art winery coming online in 2014 and again, there is plenty to admire in their latest additions, in particular a fabulous little Marsannay that shows just what this appellation can do in the right hands. This domaine might not own any premier or grand crus – but that does not appear to prevent them from producing quality Burgundy. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040 and through Goedhuis & Co in the UK.