1997 Meursault Poruzot

"This is a pleasant and flattering vintage, one to drink over the next 3-4 years," said the usually quiet and soft-spoken Francois Jobard about 1997. Normally, Jobard crafts wines that demand extended cellaring to reach their peak. In this vintage, however, his offerings will require early consumption. Candied apples awash in liquid minerals are displayed by the 1997 Meursault Poruzot's nose. How Jobard was able to craft an elegant wine with such over-ripe characteristics as pear compote and hazelnut cream pastries is admirable! This is a super Poruzots, medium-to-full-bodied, opulent, focused, somewhat austere in the finish, but, oh so good. Projected maturity: now-2004. Importers: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524, and Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel (415) 883-0400.