2009 Barolo Cannubi

Commune of Barolo. Youthful mid ruby. Savoury and serious. Sweet, brooding layer of fruit and hints of oak and leather. Lots of concentration but not ready by far. Very backward and quite solid for Cannubi. Sweet dried-fruit hints on a firm but ripe tannic finish. (WS)

The reigning queen, however, is the 2009 Barolo Cannubi. This outstanding wine shows gorgeous inner and outer beauty. I am especially impressed with her 2009 edition because this vintage presented many obstacles to many of her neighbors in the same cru designation. The balsam intensity is mind-blowing: menthol notes are woven together with ginger, cola, dried rosemary, pressed rose and licorice. The wine leaves a memorable trail of lasting elegance thanks to its finely polished tannins and silky texture. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Chiara Boschis is one of the protagonists of an exciting all-female group of producers in Barolo. She purchased E. Pira & Figli in 1981 from an old winemaking family that, sadly, finished its genetic line with no heirs after the death of its last male member. Chiara says she never wanted to change the winery’s name. Instead, she added her own in parentheses. All of her wines are simply stunning. Importer: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale, FL; tel. (954) 530-4021

The 2009 Barolo Cannubi wraps around the glass with layers of perfumed fruit. A sensual Barolo, the 2009 is quite typical in its expression of place. Soft, silky tannins frame the long finish. This is a gorgeous wine that stands out for its balance and especially, the sweetness of its tannin. Cannubi, with its sandy soils and due south exposure, is often challenged in hot years because the plants can shut down from hydric stress. I hope readers can appreciate just how difficult it must have been to craft a Barolo of this quality in 2009. The Cannubi continued to improve over the time I followed it. I will not at all be surprised if it exceeds my expectations somewhere down the line. The Cannubi is the most approachable of these 2009s.