2008 I Sodi di San Nicolo

The 2008 I Sodi di San Niccolo is especially dark, powerful and brooding in this vintage. Black fruit, smoke, tar and incense are some of the many notes that flow from a structured, tense frame. The 2008 will test the readers’ patience, but it has the stuffing and pedigree to develop into a splendid wine. This is a fabulous showing, especially within the context of the vintage. Today, the 2008 looks to be a great wine in the making. I Sodi di San Niccolo is 85% Sangioveto and 15% Malvasia Nera aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. I have long been a fan of Castellare. These are among my staples in Chianti Classico. As excellent as the wines often are, my impression is that quality and consistency have both increased in a big way over the last few years. This year’s new releases include a special commemorative wine made to celebrate the estate’s 30th vintage. While I am not usually a big fan of these “cellar blends,” the Trenta Vendemmie is truly a special bottle well worth seeking out. Readers who want to learn more about Castellare and their flagship I Sodi di San Niccolo may want to check out my vertical on that wine, also published in this issue. Kudos to proprietors Paolo and Nicoletta Panerai, and their long-time winemaker Alessandro Cellai, on these spectacular wines. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620