2009 Chablis Les Preuses

The 2009 Chablis Les Preuses reveals a rich fabric of finely spun fruit. There is a silkiness and finesse to the Preuses that is hard to fully capture with words. White flowers, mint and citrus peel are some of the nuances that come together in this beautifully articulated, complete Chablis. The round, harmonious finish points to many years of very fine drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2029. Vincent Dauvissat’s 2010 harvest started on September 21st, a few days earlier than his average over the last ten years, which has been closer to September 25th. The vintage is marked by very low yields. Couleur and millerandage were most pronounced in the grand crus, where yields were 40% lower than normal. At the same time, the wines have retained plenty of acidity, making for very interesting personalities across the range. The 2010s were aged in oak (roughly 10% new), on their fine lees, and racked once after the malos, which were finished by the end of January. The Forest, Preuses and Clos saw some new oak during the alcoholic fermentation. Dauvissat planned to begin bottling the 2010s in October or November, 2011. In 2009, Dauvissat harvested a week earlier, starting on September 14. Vintage 2009 was marked by a hot August that resulted in ripe wines with acidities that are lower than normal. Within the context of Chablis, where acidity is rarely lacking, a warm yet well-balanced season can be a good thing in that the wines are easier to drink when young, which certainly appears to be the case here. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Pale yellow. Musky, slightly high-toned aromas of lemon, lavender, hazelnut and white pepper, complicated by suggestions of earth and toast. Sappy and densely packed but youthfully imploded; less glyceral today than the Forest and Vaillons but boasts explosive minerality and outstanding inner-mouth lift. The chewy, extremely long finish perfumes the taste buds with citrus peel, flowers and spices. A superb and very ripe example of this grand cru.

Pale, bright yellow. Superb lift and perfume to the aromas of soft citrus fruits, ginger, white pepper, violet and lavender. Wonderfully sweet and aromatic in the mouth, with a compellingly tactile, silky quality without the least hint of weight. Best today on the extraordinary finish, which saturates the palate with dusty stone, floral and citrus fruit flavors. As in some recent years, this ineffable grand cru is one of my early favorites for wine of the vintage. Is there another Preuses that can approach Dauvissat's version? The yield here was a normal, generous 50 hectoliters per hectare, according to Dauvissat.