2006 Puligny Montrachet Les Chalumeaux

Matrot's 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux smells alluringly of freesia, orange blossom, musk melon, and nut oils. Honeyed, peachy, and opulent, with roasted richness and toasted nut depth, it broadly and lastingly coats the palate, leaving behind just a trace of heat. There is so little Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne that in 2003 Matrot could not even fill one barrel, so he blended it into a portion of his Chalumeaux. The results convinced him to do this every year, employing 30-40% new wood representing the La Garenne in its entirety and the name -La Quintessence.- The Domaine Matrot officially consists of three estates of unequal size, each assigned its own appellations, vinified in separate cellars. But there is a common direction, and the labels differ only in their small print. Thierry Matrot did not begin picking until September 25, as late as any vigneron I encountered, and furthermore worked backwards by the standards of most Burgundy vintners: starting with Bourgogne, he finished (in early October) with his top crus. Matrot acknowledged the rapid evolution of the fruit, but arguing that -the acids concentrated along with the potential alcohol, so the wines are in equilibrium.- That claim must count as controversial - some of these wines betrayed bitterness or heat, and all are weighty and exotic - but on the whole, these outsized wines make a plausible case for their distinct identities. That said, one caveat: I would be inclined to enjoy all of these wines young, even the best of them within 3-4 years. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 and Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400