2005 Barolo Lazzarito Riserva

The 2005 Barolo Riserva Lazzarito is dominated by excessive oak and the accompanying oxidative tones that are the result of having spent too much time in barrel. Worn-in leather and licorice are some of the forward aromas and flavors readers will find in the Lazzarito. Today it looks like the Lazzarito will always be dominated by hard, unpolished tannins, which is a shame. This is one of the single most beautiful vineyards in all of Serralunga, and the fruit seems to have had a gorgeous purity to it. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Sergio Germano is doing wonderful work in Serralunga. There is no doubt his wines deserve more recognition. As is often the case, I find the Barolo Riserva from Lazzarito – one of Serralunga’s top sites – too heavily marked by oak. Otherwise, these are all very fine offerings. Germano recently inherited a parcel in the famed Vigna Rionda. That vineyard is now being replanted, but once the vines are in production, Germano will have a fabulous quartet of Serralunga vineyards from which to draw. But the pressure is on, as there is now no reason the wines can’t and shouldn’t be great. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644; Oliver McCrum Wines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 654-9159; Sussex Wine Merchants Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9694

Serralunga d'Alba. Concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Very backward and slow. Gripping, but ripe tannin and acidity matched with a rich fruit sensation on the finish. Aroma develops on the finish. Monumental. (WS)

The 2005 Barolo Riserva Lazzarito is dominated by excessive oak and the accompanying oxidative tones that are the result of having spent too much time in barrel. Worn-in leather and licorice are some of the forward aromas and flavors readers will find in the Lazzarito. Today it looks like the Lazzarito will always be dominated by hard, unpolished tannins, which is a shame. This is one of the single most beautiful vineyards in all of Serralunga, and the fruit seems to have had a gorgeous purity to it. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. ||Sergio Germano is doing wonderful work in Serralunga. There is no doubt his wines deserve more recognition. As is often the case, I find the Barolo Riserva from Lazzarito – one of Serralunga’s top sites – too heavily marked by oak. Otherwise, these are all very fine offerings. Germano recently inherited a parcel in the famed Vigna Rionda. That vineyard is now being replanted, but once the vines are in production, Germano will have a fabulous quartet of Serralunga vineyards from which to draw. But the pressure is on, as there is now no reason the wines can’t and shouldn’t be great. Wine Advocate.October, 2011