2006 Ducru Beaucaillou

‘After a cold, wet winter, the growing season got off to a good start, with ideal summer conditions in June and July. Specifically, from April to July rainfall was much lower than average and both June and July were hot, dry, and sunny (4 °C/7.2 °F above average). August brought cooler temperatures and periods of rain, keeping our teams working hard to ensure the vines were well-aerated, to ward off disease pressure. September was sunny and warm with overall nice weather through to harvest.’ Harvest: 2 October – 16 October. 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. 18 months in new French oak. Saturated deep garnet. Smells richer and darker than the 2004. Notes of undergrowth and liquorice. Really grippy tannins and more power and concentration than in the 2004, well balanced between fruit and structure. Still chewy and finishes rather abruptly. (JH)

This was a vintage that took time to shake off its serious side, and the tannins remain pretty sombre, but set against the classicism of the cassis and blueberry fruits is plenty of slate, graphite, cocoa, pepper, turmeric and black chocolate that adds richness and power. Softening to show the first hints of tertiary, with classic St Julien character, lovely fresh acidities. A subdued vintage that has grown into its balance. The first year with Virginie Sallette as winemaker, promoted to technical director in 2008. Harvest September 18 to October 7.