2003 Primofiore

The 2003 Primofiore reveals a plump, juicy personality along with ripe dark fruit, earthiness and herb notes. A pretty note of sweetness carries through to the finish. Drink this pleasant, well-balanced wine over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2011. One of my regrets is not having spent time with Giuseppe Quintarelli when he was in his prime. His 1983 Recioto remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Today the estate is run by Quintarelli’s numerous children and grandchildren. It’s not too hard to observe what can only be called a lack of direction, not to mention a cavalier attitude that is a clear sign of an estate that finds it easier to coast on its reputation rather than continue to strive towards excellence. While many of the current releases are outstanding, the future appears much less certain. However, the best wines are phenomenal and are likely to remain objects of desire among the world’s most well-heeled collectors. Pricing is astronomical even at the cellar door, where virtually all of the wines in this article were purchased. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999