2012 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux from Domaine Comte Armand has more red rather than black fruit on the nose with plenty of wild blackberry and raspberry aromas coming through, though there is some new oak still to be resolved. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannin, good acidity but again, the oak still conspicuous and more expressive than the terroir at the moment. Then again, with knowledge of the producer, I know how this wine sheds its tannins and benefits from several years in bottle. This is one of those Burgundy wines that could go either way, but given the grower, will give it the benefit of the doubt because of those aromatics.

Dark fruit, subtle oak, pretty firm tannins. Smooth textured, despite the grip. Definitely needs time to soften. (RH)

(I tasted two components, the first from compact bedrock and the second from fractured rock, mostly at the top of the holding, then an approximation of the final blend; there is no longer a young-vines cuvee and no more Pommard 1er Cru bottling as the youngest vines here are now 27 years old; 12 hectoliters per hectare, or one-third of a normal crop): Bright, full red. Sexy, complex nose melds raspberry, redcurrant, iron and a soupcon of chocolate. Hugely rich and mouthfilling, with red fruit flavors complicated by wild herbs and salty minerality and nicely framed by harmonious acidity. In a very ripe style but with plenty of serious tannins for support. Finishes with extraordinary palate-coating solidity. Leroux told me this wine would be bottled in magnums--"and larger."