2004 Brunello di Montalcino

The estate's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino possesses gorgeous density and richness in its dark fruit, sweet toasted oak, minerals, licorice and spices. This is an especially generous, Brunello that shows terrific energy and balance in a soft, approachable style.

The estate’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino possesses gorgeous density and richness in its dark fruit, sweet toasted oak, minerals, licorice and spices. This is an especially generous, Brunello that shows terrific energy and balance in a soft, approachable style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer Leonardo Lo Cascio and producer Marilisa Allegrini purchased San Polo in 2007. Many of the vineyards were originally planted by consulting oenologist Luca D’Attoma although today it is Carlo Ferrini who oversees work in the vineyards and cellar. Clearly these releases show a property in transition, as Lo Cascio and Allegrini essentially found these wines already made (but not assembled) when they purchased the property. Lo Cascio has a brilliant palate, and it will be fascinating to see what he and his team come up with now that they are in charge. \ A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

A little stinky – only just been sulphured, perhaps. On the palate – beautifully elegant, lovely nutty character plus red fruit, high tannin, blackberry, leather, sawdust – very good. (RH)