2007 Brunello di Montalcino

Bright, dark red with ruby highlights. Slightly high-toned aromas of cassis, blueberry, licorice and menthol, plus a whiff of leather; I would probably have picked this blind as cabernet. Superconcentrated, dense and powerful, with a penetrating character and excellent energy to the youthfully medicinal flavors of dark berries, black cherry, spices and menthol. This firmly tannic, structured wine is not my idea of sangiovese but there's no denying its intensity. Lay it down for at least four or five years.

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous. Dark red cherries, plums, spices, leather and tobacco wrap around the palate as this dense, powerful wine starts to open up. Expressive aromatics are woven throughout, giving the 2007 a measure of polish and sophistication that is not always present in this wine when it is young. Finessed, suave tannins reinforce an impression of elegance. The 2007 can be enjoyed with minimum cellaring, but it will also age gracefully for many years. Readers who want to try the 2007 today should give the wine plenty of air, as the more refined qualities only emerge over time. When tasted next to the 2006, the 2007 shows redder tonalities of fruit and less sheer muscle. Hints of tobacco, crushed flowers and spices wrap around the sensual finish.

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous. Dark red cherries, plums, spices, leather and tobacco wrap around the palate as this dense, powerful wine starts to open up. Expressive aromatics are woven throughout, giving the 2007 a measure of polish and sophistication that is not always present in this wine when it is young. Finessed, suave tannins reinforce an impression of elegance. The 2007 can be enjoyed with minimum cellaring, but it will also age gracefully for many years. Readers who want to try the 2007 today should give the wine plenty of air, as the more refined qualities only emerge over time. When tasted next to the 2006, the 2007 shows redder tonalities of fruit and less sheer muscle. Hints of tobacco, crushed flowers and spices wrap around the sensual finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Vincenzo Abbruzzese has been one of Montalcino’s most consistent producers over the last few years, an impression that was reinforced during my visit earlier this year. I tasted every wine in cask, and they were all terrific. I also had a chance to revisit the 1988 and 1990 Madonna del Pianos, both of which have aged beautifully in bottle. Readers who want to learn more about the estate and their wines will want to check out my video interview with Vincenzo Abbruzzese on www.erobertparker.com Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907