1990 Brunello di Montalcino

This bottle, from my cellar, is one of the finest examples I have had. The only real problem with the 1990 is the existence of the 1990 Riserva, an epic, towering Brunello that, in my view, remains one of the greatest wines ever made in anywhere in the world. Soldera’s 1990 Brunello di Montalcino doesn’t quite have the visceral power and lushness of his Riserva, but you know what? It comes pretty close. Heady Sangiovese aromas and flavors literally explode onto the palate with seamless intensity. Still rich and beautifully layered, the 1990 has more than enough stuffing to drink well for another twenty years. The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino is the first Brunello Soldera made from his Case Basse vineyard. Prior to that, the Brunellos were all made from the Intistieti vineyard, as was the 1990 Riserva. Sadly, Gianfranco Soldera passed away suddenly about a year ago. This wine and so many others he made remain vivid testaments to his extraordinary life and legacy.

Sensual, layered and inviting, the 1990 Brunello di Montalcino is a pure joy to taste today. The flavors are dark and silky to the core. I had bottles of the 1990 Brunello Riserva that come close to the Riserva in pure richness. Although this is not one of those cases, the 1990 impresses with its delicate and inviting personality. In any other tasting, it would be a top three or top five wine, but the competition is pretty tough in this tasting.

I haven’t tasted Soldera’s two 1990 Brunellos side by side in years. The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino, from my cellar, is extraordinary. I tasted the wine alone, I would say it is the single greatest Brunello I have ever had. The fruit is so dense, vibrant, pure and layered. Wow.